How to Care for Tropical Fish
The popularity of tropical fishes is due to various reasons. For one thing you will have a constant source of delight in their gorgeous coloring, which includes all the colors of the rainbow mixed together in profusion. Again, the remoteness of their origins adds a romantic interest to these beautiful little fish. Nor is it difficult to keep them, for they adapt themselves beautifully to home aquaria (an aquarium is a tank for marine animals; the plural is aquaria).
Tropical fishes may be divided into two groups, the live-bearers, which as the name implies bear their young alive, and the egg- layers, which reproduce through eggs. The first kind, the live-bearers, may be found in great numbers and many varieties in our own hemisphere. The other group of fish, the egg- layers, includes many more varieties and these are found in many parts of the world.
Tropical fish have been bred in such large numbers in this country that the number imported has been continually decreasing. Generally speaking, only the rarer species are now imported.
While almost all the small tropical fishes can be kept in home aquaria, there are some important rules that must be observed if the fish are to be kept in good condition.
For one thing, since fish have a soft mucous coat over their scales to protect them against bacteria, the water must be soft or this mucous coat will be destroyed with consequent harm to the fish. If the tap water is too hard, rain-water or water from a pond may be used. Furthermore the water should be kept sweet by healthy plants, which liberate oxygen and absorb gases that are harmful to the fishes.
An aquarium of five, ten or fifteen gallon capacity should have enough coarse sand to cover the bottom to a depth of at least an inch. It should be placed near a window, so that the plants will have sufficient light. Better results may be obtained by using artificial light from a reflector that fits over the top of the tank. A reflector of this sort concentrates the light on the fish and plants and brings out the best coloring of both. Besides, artificial light supplies a steady, dependable source of light. An ordinary 40-watt incandescent lamp will suffice for a io-gallon tank and a 50-watt lamp for a x-gallon tank. This artificial light should operate at least eight hours a day.
An important thing to remember is that most tropical fishes are jumpers and that many of them could easily leap from the average aquarium. To keep them from doing so, place a glass cover (window glass will do) over the entire aquarium. This glass will also keep out dust and other foreign matter. Be sure that the glass cover fits loosely, so that air can easily enter the aquarium.
The plants called Vallisneria, Sagittaria Sinensis, Sagittaria Subulata, hairgrass and spatterdock may be put in the aquarium. Remember that the front center of the aquarium should be left free of plants so that you may be able to observe the fish without difficulty.
When you have put the plants into the tank, a period of three days should elapse before you introduce the fish into the aquarium. This three-day interval will give the plants a chance to grow, and the chlorine that is often present in water for purifying purposes will have disappeared. As this chlorine is harmful to fishes, they should not be placed in fresh tap water.
When the water in the tank has been well conditioned, it is time to stock the aquarium with fish. In order to have enough oxygen for the fish, not more than two fish per gallon should be put into a tank. A good collection to start with would be a pair each of Angel Fish, Red Platies, Zebras, Black Mollies and Guppies.
The Angel Fish is noted for its haughty, dignified manners. The black vertical bars across the body contrast beautifully with the underlying silver-green. The Red Platy is a beautiful fish, vividly colored. The young in some strains are gold in color but become blood red as they reach maturity. The Zebra is the most peaceful of all aquarium fishes. Though it may chase other fishes, this is due only to its habit of swimming in schools. If there are no other Zebras in the tank, it will follow the fish of different species. The Black Molly is the only fish suitable for aquarium purposes that is entirely black.
Perhaps you may want to start a colony of Guppies. This exquisite little fish is very popular with fish fanciers. Its coloring has been described as “every color combined into one harmonious whole.”
Fish do not require much food and are not very particular eaters. Any prepared food, which you may buy at your dealer’s, will answer the purpose. It is well to use two or more foods alternately and occasionally to feed a little cooked spinach to the live-bearers. Live foods, such as mosquito larv and small worms, are good; these too may be bought at your dealer’s.
Do not overfeed the fishes. The food which is not eaten lies on the bottom of the tank and decomposes, causing the water to become cloudy. Harmful gases will be formed and the water will become deficient in oxygen. Overfeeding may be avoided by feeding no more than your fish will eat in ten or fifteen minutes. If food is left after that time, you have fed too much. It would be well not to feed the next day, and to feed less thereafter. Feeding once a day is usually enough.
Snails are useful scavengers in an aquarium; they consume surplus food and decaying vegetation. The Red Ramshorn Snail is a favorite with fish fanciers. Its red shell and body make an effective contrast with the green vegetation of the aquarium. Other species of snails that are used a scavengers are the Australian Red Snail, the Pond Snail and the Trumpet Snail.
Tropical fish require a water temperature of from 70 to 8o degrees. Since variation in temperature is one of the chief sources of trouble in an aquarium, everything possible should be done to avoid or minimize this variation. It would be well to have a heater that will supply heat along the bottom of the tank. If you cannot obtain a heater for the aquarium, cover the tanks on cold nights with a blanket or other cloth covering.
In spite of all your precautions, fish may sometimes become sick. The most common fish disease is White Spots or Icli. The word Ich is really the shortened form of Ichiyophthira, a tiny parasite that causes the disease. Ich is characterized by pinched fins and white spots on the body and fins. It is best to remove the affected fish from the aquarium and to place it in a separate container. Some common salt or patent fish remedy should then be added to the water. The tiny white spots should disappear in about a week.
Another common disease is Tailrot or Fungus. The fungus is a white scummy coating that may be found on many parts of the fish. The affected fish should be placed in clean water to which some salt has been added. Swabbing the affected parts with cotton soaked in mercurochrome or vinegar is effective.
When plants and food are placed in the aquarium, fish enemies may be introduced with them: such enemies as the diving beetle larva, the larv of various dragon flies and the water scorpion. It would be well to consider all unknown bugs and larv that are found in the aquarium as fish enemies.
